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In Zurich, wedged between vintage shops, bakeries, and a Jewish Orthodox synagogue, a young immigrant chef (35) runs three plant-based restaurants within a stone's throw of each other: Kle*, Cor, and Dar. In 2025, she received the prestigious Swiss Culinary Merit, an award that honours gastronomy professionals for their craftsmanship and respect for Swiss culinary heritage. Food Inspirations Sheila Struyck spoke with this unique, slightly activist star chef, who does not shy away from big topics.
We must eat more plant-based
The daughter of Moroccan immigrants grew up on the Spanish coast and studied in Barcelona. Hattab left for Switzerland to work as an engineer. There, she developed a love of cooking and changed course. A couple years later, she’s become one of the most important advocates for plant-based cuisine in Switzerland. She is well established in Zurich with three plant-based restaurants. This is quite an accomplishment; traditionally Swiss cuisine has a leading role for dairy and meat. But for Hattab, eating more plants is a very natural choice.
"Plants are the staple food of every indigenous population and have been for generations. We need to go back to that. We need to reconnect with nature.” But change does not happen by itself and sometimes needs a push. “I have jumped into the deep end without being able to swim, but I trust that I will figure it out. I have learned early on to surround myself with the best swimmers, so that together we can reach the shore.
Honestly, people get involved in our mission by personal choice. If they don't believe in the impact of our work, the relationship won't last. At the restaurant, we try to have the best impact on all people involved, hospitality is a people business. The cooking and service is a part of it, but we focus on human connections. So, my entire team deserves the credit for the work we do.”
“Plants are our staple food and have been so for generations. We need to go back to that."
Kle, Cor, and Dar
At Kle, Zizi translates her life and travel experiences into fine dining dishes. The restaurant opened in 2020 and has been awarded red and green Michelin stars. The intimate restaurant with 40 seats is decorated in ‘shaker’ style, lots of wood and simple textiles. An austere elegance that feels very pure.
Cor is a simple but elegant tapas and vermouth bar with a clear Spanish signature.
In the Moroccan-inspired Dar – meaning “to give” in Spanish and “home” in Arabic – all dishes are served at the same time, to share, just like at home. Hot harira, steaming couscous, but also tapas-like snacks that immediately make you think of Barcelona.
Local, seasonal and 100% plant-based
"In Switzerland, a focus on local, seasonal, and 100% plant-based cooking mainly means tapping into extra creativity. We can only harvest fresh vegetables and fruits during five months. By always questioning what we already know, we discover new flavor combinations. We research better and new preservation methods to retain the taste of summer for longer.” Kle doesn’t have an à la carte menu, but rather a choice of 4, 5 or 6 courses that change with the seasons.
The large retailers and industrialized food production have cut the umbilical cord that connects us to mother nature, Hattab argues. "When I was growing up in Spain, farm-to-table cooking was a no-brainer. We bought vegetables and eggs from the neighbors and didn't eat strawberries in winter or chestnuts in summer. Here, I work with regular farmers. We support each other. If we want a specific vegetable on the menu, they grow it for us. And if they have a too abundant harvest or their crops are damaged by hail, we still buy their products. This circle of trust is crucial.”
This unequivocal text hangs on a notice board in the restaurant:
"Together for a space free of racism, classism, sexism, ableism, ageism, lookism and speciesism."
Kle: vegetable art on the plate
Hattab learned her trade from disciplined star chefs in kitchens including Nerua* (Bilbao), Schloss Schauenstein*** (Fürstenau), Osteria Francescana*** (Modena), Blue Hill** and Cosme (both New York). You see it on the plate: fine dining finesse combined with multicultural roots and inspiration from traveling the world.
The friendly waiters in green linen don't explain in detail what lies on your plate, but they do tell you the story behind it. What was the source of inspiration? Who grows the Thai herbs? The dishes are highly flavored, with a well-balanced use of bitter, sour, and of course umami.
All the senses are stimulated in the peaceful dining room. What really characterizes Kle are the gestures. For each dish, the portion size and how you eat or spread it has been carefully considered. Small doll's spoons provide just enough Kosho mayonnaise on your pillow bread. You eat the elegant New York-style hot dog with your hands. That bit of sauce on your nose adds to the eating experience. The seaweed-based aguachile gives the kohlrabi a hint of the ocean. The latter dish is served with a “smokey spice water à la mezcal,” one of the surprising pairings for which Kle is also known.
Work-life balance
There is a huge difference between running one business and several, Hattab explains. “If you are as involved as I am, you must learn to delegate and maintain a tight schedule. In addition to my businesses, I also organize external events and regularly travel abroad to cook. It is quite a challenge to spend quality time with my family and friends. I have put together a team of people I admire. They can run the locations without me.”
"I have put together a team of people I admire"
Co-ownership
The entire team is spotlighted in her cookbook, “The Taste of Love.” It makes sense, she says. “I couldn't do it without them. I always mention their names too: Alessandro, Emily, Antonio, and Sven are the driving forces in our kitchens. At the front, it is Johanna, Amona, Laila, Ananda, and Manon who run the operation and ensure a hospitable, loving welcome and a special experience for our guests. And the secret weapon? That's Marc Barrafon. For 18 years, he has been the love of my life and the man who makes sure everything works behind the scenes: from contracts to annual figures, from marketing to HR.”
“I believe in retribution. We recently made Alessandro a co-owner. Many people ask me why we did that. It was important for him and I. Alessandro has been Kle's head chef since day one. Kle wouldn't be the same without him. From the start, he has worked there with a sense of ownership, without being one. As soon as it was possible, I offered him the opportunity. I cherish dedication, both privately and professionally. In the future, I will certainly offer this to more employees who share our mission and are in it for the long term.”
Social inequality
Social justice and intersectional change are an important theme in Hattab's life. “If I can do something to create equal opportunities or prevent abuses, then I will do it. Sometimes we receive attractive requests or invitations to collaborate, which we turn down because they do not share our core values. We can disagree about which coffee is the best, but not about fundamental issues such as human rights or genocide. That is why I am so proud of my Swiss Culinary Merit award. As an immigrant - and the daughter of immigrants - this is proof to me that I am being recognized. It puts the spotlight on our work to eliminate social inequality and injustice from the hospitality industry.”
